New Taipei City Travel

When it comes to walled cities in Taiwan, the first places most people think of are Tainan City, Taipei City, and Hengchun Township. The gates of these cities, which were built by officials, still have their gates and even some of their walls, and some of them have had MRT stops named after them (Beimen [north gate] Station, Ximen [west gate] Station or the Taipei MRT line), and are a shared memory among present-day Taiwanese people. But did you know that there is also a walled city in Banqiao, the prime district of New Taipei City?When going from the MRT Fuzhong Station to the Lin Family Mansion and Garden, perceptive travelers will notice that the streetlights in this area are particularly old fashioned, and that they are labelled “Fangqiao Walled City.” On top of that, when looking down, you can see the words “City Border” on the street tiles. The ancient Fangqiao Walled City had five city gates, just like Taipei; additionally, its history is even better known than that of Taipei, primarily due to two major factors that led to the establishment of the city: the Lin family of Banqiao and the Zhang-Quan fighting.Back in the Qing Dynasty, there were frequent fights between Zhangzhou and Quanzhou immigrants; in order to defend themselves from the Quanzhou immigrants, the Banqiao Lin family, who originally came from Zhangzhou, built the Fangqiao Walled City in 1855, stretching out to present-day Ximen [west gate] Street, Beimen [north gate] Street, Nanmen [south gate] Street, and Guanqian West Road. However, during the Japanese occupation, the city was demolished to make place for traffic. Nevertheless, the temples located in the area still show traces of the old city. Cihui Mazu templeLocated at the east side of the Fangqiao Walled City is the most popular Mazu temple in the Banqiao District. The temple is decorated on both the inside and the outside with fragmented ceramic art, sculptures, and color paintings, and the highly refined temple buildings are richly ornamented. In addition, the temple is a popular place for people to pray for prosperity, and local business magnates such as the Banqiao Lin family are all frequent visitors. If you look carefully, you can even find a dragon pillar bearing the business name of the Lin family.Banqiao Jieyun TempleThe Jieyun Temple and the Xinzhuang Dizang Temple, both located near the west gate of Fangqiao Walled City, are historically related to the Zhang-Quan fights; the Dizang Temple was built by the Banqiao gentry to commemorate the Zhangzhou people who died in the altercations. The Jieyun Temple, which is on the other side, was formerly known as the Zhonghe Ciyunyan Temple, but was destroyed during the armed struggles, and its remains were taken over by the Banqiao Jieyun Temple. Its collection contains many precious ancient plaques and scrolls, and there are many wood carvings of flying immortals wrapped in gold foil on both sides of the roof as well as in the main hall, which are very spectacular. The caisson ceiling has a special long oval design, and is of great historical and religious value.Banqiao Diyi TempleThe only one of the four temples to have been a city-designated temple, the Diyi Temple, was built by the Banqiao Lin family to commemorate the people who died fighting; it is also known as the Yuanshuai Temple. In 2021, after it was restored, the temple opened up for the public by appointment. The paintings of the Door Gods and the Qilin murals inside are all made by master painter Mr. Cai Longjin, the winner of the New Taipei Cultural Award. Next time you are in Banqiao, on your way to the Lin Family Mansion and Garden, slow down and closely follow the inscriptions on the ground to explore the former Walled City, and enter the temples to admire the exquisite paintings and craftmanship, and explore the past life of the city!

One day in 1820, fishermen of Yehliu found a Fujian-style sailboat drifting alone on the open waters, so they boarded the sailboat to check, and found no one on it. However, they found a statue of Kai Zhang Sheng Wang and Chinese fir and limestone, building materials, in the cabin. After having a discussion, people resolved to welcome the god to their fishing village. They used building materials found on the boat to build a temple called Baoan Temple to bless fishermen in Yehliu a safe journey when they went fishing on the sea.Several decades later, a boat from Fujian struck a reef and sank. After the tragedy, Kai Zhang Sheng Wang entered the body of a spirit medium to indicate fishermen to offer sacrifices to pray for peace, not allowing the remains of victims to be brought to the fishing port. Kai Zhang Sheng Wang further indicated that He would go on an inspection tour around the port at Lantern Festival in person. Following the instructions of the God, young and strong residents in Yehliu carried the God’s sedan chair on January 15 of the lunar calendar, jumping into the cold sea water to expel ghosts and monsters at the port. This was the origin of jumping into the sea with gods in Yehliu.Come in Water and Go in FireThe tradition of jumping into the sea with gods in Yehliu has over one hundred years of history, and it is a unique activity at Lantern Festival at Taiwan’s Northern Coast. The tradition enjoys the fame with Sky Lantern Festival in Pingxi and beehive fireworks in Yanshui as they are all intangible cultural heritage. The four rituals of jumping into the sea with gods in Yehliu include “going on an inspection tour with gods on the sea,” “bringing back a whole cabin of catches,” “jumping into the sea with gods,” and “stepping on the bonfire with gods to expel evils and adversities.” Participating followers have to jump into the water with a god’s sedan chair first, and run toward the bonfire after they go ashore. Therefore, we say “come in the water, and go in the fire.” It is the most distinctive cultural festival in Wanli District.Jumping into the sea with gods is an annual occasion in Yehliu. Residents and fishermen in Yehliu support the event by donating money and contributing their labor to plan it. It is an important activity that enables local people to work together as a team. The event of jumping into the sea with gods starts early in the morning, and followers and sacrificial service chiefs carry out the blessing ceremony successively in Baoan Temple. In front of the temple, you can see the spectacular performances of the lion dance of Yehliu Elementary School, beiguan music club, and god’s generals. It is difficult to take your eyes off the performances, and you can hear the sounds of camera shutters one after another as well. The temple workers carry the eight gods’ sedan chairs to the front of Baoan Temple. After they carefully place gods’ statues in the sedan chairs, they hang firecrackers on the sedan chairs. Strong and brave men carrying the sedan chairs move forward while firecrackers are being set off. For a moment, the sounds of firecrackers resound across the sky, going through the cloudy and rainy sky to the Heavenly Palace.Going on an Inspection Tour with Gods on SeaThe lead boat sets sail with people’s blessings, kicking off the event of going on an inspection tour with gods on the sea. Over ten fishing boats follow the lead boat in order and dash out Yehliu Fishing Port amid the loud noise of firecrackers. During the one hour of the inspection tour, all fishing boats circle around Yehliu Fishing Port three times to pray for plentiful catches and safety.Bringing back a Full Cabin of CatchesAfter an inspection tour on the sea, fishermen will open their cabin and crane up a full load of catches to the truck before they return to Baoan Temple. This means that fishermen will get a full load of catches on their each voyage this year. Next, the city mayor will host a charity auction for catches, where competitive bidding can be seen at the scene.Jumping into the Sea with Gods The highly anticipated event of “Jumping into the Sea with Gods” starts in front of Baoan Temple as people shout “get into the sedan chair” and “let’s go” loudly. Strong and brave men in Yehliu carry the eight gods’ sedan chairs for Kai Zhang Sheng Wang, Mazu, General Zhou Cang, the Lord of Land and so on, and they brave the cold and dash into the fishing port amid the loud cheers of people. The scene is exactly the same as the one when Kai Zhang Sheng Wang went on an inspection tour at the fishing port over one hundred years ago. The ceremony is held to expel ghosts and spirits, praying for favorable weather and safety.In recent years, the event has changed with the times: people are welcome to join the activity of jumping into the sea with gods, and a design competition is held. After gods’ sedan chairs arrive at the fishing port, 100 people are welcome to participate in the event of jumping into the sea. The year 2024 is the year of the dragon, so quite a few participants wear clothing with the style of the dragon to celebrate the year of the dragon and pray for safety in the coming year.Stepping on Bonfire with Gods to Expel Evils and Adversities After strong and brave men carrying gods’ sedan chairs jump into the port, they have to swim across Yehliu Port with the sedan chairs. After they come ashore, they are ready to step on the bonfire. When it is time, the shouts of “get into the sedan chair” and “let’s go” echo throughout Yehliu, and strong and brave men carry gods’ sedan chairs and step on the bonfire that has been sprinkled with salt and rice barefooted to purify calamities on their bodies. After doing this for three rounds, they complete the ritual of “coming in the water, and going in the fire.”Being led by the beiguan music club, gods make a pilgrimage procession around the fishing port to protect Yehliu. The cultural festival of jumping into the sea with gods originated from a mysterious unmanned boat drifting on the sea over one hundred years ago. After Kai Zhang Sheng Wang was brought ashore by local fishermen, He entered the body of a spirit medium to go on an inspection tour at the port to protect the safety of Yehliu Fishing Port. Residents in Yehliu, in return, pass down the tradition. The event of jumping into the sea with gods is not only a special activity at Lantern Festival, but also a shared memory of residents of different generations in Yehliu.