Once upon a time there was a walled city — Exploring Fangqiao City and the four temples

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When it comes to walled cities in Taiwan, the first places most people think of are Tainan City, Taipei City, and Hengchun Township. The gates of these cities, which were built by officials, still have their gates and even some of their walls, and some of them have had MRT stops named after them (Beimen [north gate] Station, Ximen [west gate] Station or the Taipei MRT line), and are a shared memory among present-day Taiwanese people. But did you know that there is also a walled city in Banqiao, the prime district of New Taipei City?

When going from the MRT Fuzhong Station to the Lin Family Mansion and Garden, perceptive travelers will notice that the streetlights in this area are particularly old fashioned, and that they are labelled “Fangqiao Walled City.” On top of that, when looking down, you can see the words “City Border” on the street tiles. The ancient Fangqiao Walled City had five city gates, just like Taipei; additionally, its history is even better known than that of Taipei, primarily due to two major factors that led to the establishment of the city: the Lin family of Banqiao and the Zhang-Quan fighting.

Back in the Qing Dynasty, there were frequent fights between Zhangzhou and Quanzhou immigrants; in order to defend themselves from the Quanzhou immigrants, the Banqiao Lin family, who originally came from Zhangzhou, built the Fangqiao Walled City in 1855, stretching out to present-day Ximen [west gate] Street, Beimen [north gate] Street, Nanmen [south gate] Street, and Guanqian West Road. However, during the Japanese occupation, the city was demolished to make place for traffic. Nevertheless, the temples located in the area still show traces of the old city.

Cihui Mazu temple
Located at the east side of the Fangqiao Walled City is the most popular Mazu temple in the Banqiao District. The temple is decorated on both the inside and the outside with fragmented ceramic art, sculptures, and color paintings, and the highly refined temple buildings are richly ornamented. In addition, the temple is a popular place for people to pray for prosperity, and local business magnates such as the Banqiao Lin family are all frequent visitors. If you look carefully, you can even find a dragon pillar bearing the business name of the Lin family.

Banqiao Jieyun Temple
The Jieyun Temple and the Xinzhuang Dizang Temple, both located near the west gate of Fangqiao Walled City, are historically related to the Zhang-Quan fights; the Dizang Temple was built by the Banqiao gentry to commemorate the Zhangzhou people who died in the altercations. The Jieyun Temple, which is on the other side, was formerly known as the Zhonghe Ciyunyan Temple, but was destroyed during the armed struggles, and its remains were taken over by the Banqiao Jieyun Temple. Its collection contains many precious ancient plaques and scrolls, and there are many wood carvings of flying immortals wrapped in gold foil on both sides of the roof as well as in the main hall, which are very spectacular. The caisson ceiling has a special long oval design, and is of great historical and religious value.

Banqiao Diyi Temple
The only one of the four temples to have been a city-designated temple, the Diyi Temple, was built by the Banqiao Lin family to commemorate the people who died fighting; it is also known as the Yuanshuai Temple. In 2021, after it was restored, the temple opened up for the public by appointment. The paintings of the Door Gods and the Qilin murals inside are all made by master painter Mr. Cai Longjin, the winner of the New Taipei Cultural Award. Next time you are in Banqiao, on your way to the Lin Family Mansion and Garden, slow down and closely follow the inscriptions on the ground to explore the former Walled City, and enter the temples to admire the exquisite paintings and craftmanship, and explore the past life of the city!

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Female Power: Her Story ⁠— Tamsui Women’s Road

Tamsui, one of the earliest international commercial ports in Taiwan, has rich cultural assets and scenic oceans and mountains, making a well-known tourist attraction in Northern Taiwan. Tamsui, which opened its port to merchants and trade in 1860, was the main center of trade for Taiwan and the rest of the world, and it contributed to many important changes in Taiwanese society. The first girl’s school, Tamsui Girls’ School, was founded in Zhenli Street, which is located in today’s Tamsui. Communities such as the New Taipei City Government, Tamsui Traveler, and New Taipei City Community Traveling and Learning Care Association collaborated on Tamsui Women’s Road. It aims to discover local stories of female power and connect with historical sites of feminine significance. Let’s put on our hanfu and discover Her Story in Tamsui.The House of Maidens and the House of ReverendsThe House of Maidens and the House of Reverends were built by Rev. William Gauld in 1906 and 1909 respectively. The House of The House of Maidens and the House of Reverends were built by Rev. William Gauld in 1906 and 1909 respectively. The House of Maidens was originally provided as a residence for Ms. Jane Kinney, the headmaster of Tamsui Girls’ School, and Ms. Hannah Connell, the headmaster of Tamsui Women’s School, and is currently the Office of the President of Aletheia University. The House of Reverends was the residence of Rev. William Gauld; its piano studio became a smash hit after it was featured in the extremely popular movie Secret (2007), and is now the Research and Development Center of Aletheia University. The appearance of the two Houses is similar to that of the British consulate residence situated not far away; all of them are red brick buildings containing a cloister. What differentiates the two houses from the British consulate residence is that the exterior wall decoration is much simpler than that of the official residence. Rev. Mackay and his wife Chang Tsung-mingChang Tsung-ming, who was originally named Tsung-tsai, grew up in Wugu District in New Taipei City. After marrying Rev. Mackay in the former British Consulate in Tamsui in 1878, she studied hard, becoming an English-proficient teacher in the Women’s School, which made Chang a woman ahead of her time. Chang and Rev. Mackay also helped many Taiwanese women fettered by tradition, and they played important roles in the history of women’s education in Taiwan. Tamsui Women’s Road will vividly show you Chang Tsung-ming’s journey in Mackay Memorial Museum in the form of a street play.At the end of 1879, Chang Tsung-ming and Rev. Mackay started their journey back to Canada, passing through Xiamen, Hong Kong, Singapore, and India, until they arrived in the Middle East. They visited the pyramids in Egypt, and the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem. From there, they passed through Alexandria and arrived in Italy, where they visited the ruins of Pompeii, Rome and Vatican City. Then, they went to Paris and England, and finally arrived in Canada. After accompanying Rev. Mackay to finish his duties and fundraising in Canada, they flew through the US and Japan, and came back to Taiwan. This experience also made Chang Tsung-ming the first Taiwanese woman who traveled around the world.The Tamsui Girls’ SchoolAfter Rev. Mackay returned to Taiwan from Canada, he established the Tamsui Girls’ School in 1884 – the first women's school and the origin of women's education in Taiwan. The women's school has nurtured many outstanding women: the first female physician in Taiwan, Dr. Tsai Ashin (The heroine of the TV series A Cinematic Journey - the prototype of Qiu Yaxin) and the writer Wang Li Ruyue all graduated from Tamsui Girls’ School. In addition, in order to help educate married and adult women, Rev. Mackay established a women's school, which can be called the first “Classroom for Moms" in Taiwan.A-geiA-gei is a well-known snack in Tamsui. Just like Yonghe soy milk, when we think of A-gei, we think of Tamsui. The inventor of this famous snack was Ms. Yang Zheng Jinwen, who ran a snack stand with her husband, Yang Shugen. In 1965, she developed a new dish, for which she cut upoiled tofu, filled it with pork noodles, and sealed it with fresh fish paste. This dish became the symbol of Tamsui’s delicious cuisine, A-gei. The word “A-gei” originated from the Japanese word for oily tofu, "Abura-age." To the foreigners’ surprise, the packaging for takeaway A-gei was initially wrapped in newspapers to withstand the wet and cold weather in Tamsui during winter.Handmade thread-bound booksThe old name of Chongjian Street is Nine Valley Street, which refers to the nine stores that first opened here, making it the one and only Tamsui Old Street. Before the development of the shopping district in Tamsui’s Zhongzheng Road, Tamsui Old Street was the busiest place in Tamsui, with some of the old houses leading up into the hills still standing today. In the age of the Internet, where information is abundant, this place returned to the time of original paper books, bound one stitch at a time, carefully creating a world of books.The line “The beauty of Guanyin Mountain enters my view, a reflected painting of the morning sun” is from a poem by a female poet from Tamsui, Wang Li Ruyue. As you walk down Chongjian Street toward the MRT station, you can see Guanyin Mountain and the Samsui river in front of you, and experience the same feelings this poet felt. Tamsui, when looking from a female perspective, is the cradle of women’s education in Taiwan, which has fostered countless outstanding women before us. The first step from Tamsui then became a big step in the social change of Taiwan.

New Taipei’s Biking Paths: ONE to TEN

New Taipei City features rich and diverse landscapes, from the azure Route 2 Taiwan along the North Coast and the Leisurely Mountain and Sea Route that preserves mining heritage, to the riverside greenery in metropolitan areas. Each location offers unique scenery and stories. Hop on a bicycle and embark on low-carbon travel through New Taipei City at the most relaxing pace! New Taipei City has established Youbike public bicycle stations across all 29 administrative districts and extensively developed biking paths in tourist areas, making cycling adventures more convenient and safer. The Department of Tourism has carefully selected 10 biking paths. Let's ride from 1 to 10, One to Ten, and explore the diverse beauty of New Taipei City on two wheels!1. Wanjin Biking PathStart from Wanli's Green Bay and head toward Jinshan's Jhongjiao Bay! The Wanjin Biking Path stretches approximately 15 kilometers, featuring a route paved with asphalt and wooden boardwalks, accompanied by cooling shade and gentle sea breezes along the way. Visit attractions such as Shuiwei Fishing Harbor and Huangqing Bridge while admiring scenery that weaves together pastoral landscapes and azure coastlines. After working up a sweat on the Wanjin Biking Path, explore Jinshan Old Street to sample local delicacies. In the evening, stay at a hot spring hotel where a warm pool will completely melt away every trace of fatigue. 2. Shuangxi District Biking Path The Shuangxi District Biking Path spans approximately 6.2 kilometers, offering the joy of cycling through the lush green and fresh air of the Pinglin River basin. Starting from Shuangxi Train Station, visit attractions along the route including Shuangxi Lotus Garden, Ruanqiao Section Waterfront Park, the Lotus Garden in Lin Family’s Old House, and the Lian Scholar's Historic Residence. The Shuangxi District Biking Path provides smooth and easy riding, perfect for families cycling together. Beside crystal-clear streams, visitors can admire flowers, watch fish, and play in the water—the ideal choice for relaxation and enjoying nature. 3. Sandiao Cape (Old Caoling Belt Bikeway) Rent an e-bike from Fulong Station and enter the Old Caoling Belt Bikeway for a 20-kilometer journey through mountains and sea. First, enter the Old Caoling Tunnel where the music of "Diu Diu Dang Ah" plays as you travel from New Taipei through to Yilan. When that light at the tunnel's end transforms into the magnificent Pacific Ocean, ride along the mountain-and-sea biking path accompanied by Guishan Island to reach Taiwan's easternmost point: Sandiao Cape Lighthouse. Check in for stunning photos and admire the endless azure ocean. Continue your journey through the stone houses of Magang and Maoao fishing villages before finally returning to Fulong Station to feast on famous traditional Fulong lunch boxes. 4. Shimen (Wanta Biking Path, Shuangwan Biking Path) Shimen District serves as the central point of the Route 2 Taiwan and represents Taiwan's northernmost administrative district. Visit Shimen to see the landmark Shimen Cave and the main island's northernmost point at Fugui Cape, then follow the Wanta Biking Path connecting to the Shuangwan Biking Path. With sea breezes pushing you forward, cycle toward Baishawan and Qianshuiwan. By connecting the Wanta and Shuangwan Biking Paths for a 12-kilometer journey along wooden coastal boardwalks, you'll feast your eyes on the algae reef intertidal zone at Laomei Green Reef, the wind-carved rocks of Linshan Cape, and the pristine sandy beach of Baishawan! 5. Wugu (Erchong Circular Biking Path) The Erchong Floodway represents an important project under the Greater Taipei flood control plan. Its first phase was completed in 1984, significantly improving flood issues throughout the Tamsui River basin. The New Taipei City Government has successively developed multiple sports venues and recreational facilities within the Erchong Floodway, including New Taipei Metropolitan Park, and designed the Erchong Circular Biking Path. This circular route spans approximately 20 kilometers, crossing the administrative districts of Wugu, Luzhou, and Sanchong. Attractions along the way include Wugu Wetland Ecological Park, Breeze Canal, Air Force Sanchong Village 1, Chongxin Bridge Tourist Market, and New Taipei Metropolitan Park. 6. Lujiaoxi Wetland (Dahan River’s Left Bank Biking Path) Transformed from an abandoned landfill into a 16-hectare ecological paradise, Lujiaoxi Wetland serves as the water quality guardian of the Dahan River while providing habitat for migratory birds and aquatic plants. This area forms part of the Dahan River’s Left Bank Biking Path, which extends 24.7 kilometers total. Riding upstream leads to Yingge's New Taipei City Art Museum and Yuanshan Weir, while heading downstream through various major riverside wetlands takes you to Xinzhuang Temple Street and Crescent Bridge. This creates a waterfront cycling route that seamlessly blends art, culture, and ecology.7. Qixi Biking PathFormerly known as "Shuifanjiao," Xizhi sits between Taipei and Keelung. In earlier times, the prosperity of water transportation along the Keelung River led to the development of a thriving market town focused primarily on tea leaves and mountain goods distribution. The Keelung River is renowned for its winding and meandering terrain, and the Qixi Biking Path runs alongside this river. Stretching from Keelung's Qidu to New Taipei's Xizhi, the most striking landmark along the route is the microphone-shaped "Starlight Bridge." The Wudu Tunnel connecting Xizhi and Qidu is an old Taiwan Railway tunnel built during the Japanese colonial period. This brick-constructed arched tunnel has been restored to reveal its former glory, and cycling through it allows direct travel from New Taipei's Xizhi to Keelung! 8. Bali Left Bank Biking Path Located on the left bank of the Tamsui River estuary, Bali offers expansive views where river meets sea, making it ideal for leisurely cycling exploration. Follow the Bali Left Bank Biking Path for a relaxing ride, starting from Guanyinkeng, passing beneath the rainbow-like Guandu Bridge and through the food-rich Ferry Pier Old Street, all the way to Taiwan's first archaeological museum: The Shihsanhang Museum of Archaeology. Parks and green spaces dot the route, with the red "BALI" landmark set against the Tamsui River serving as a favorite check-in spot for social media enthusiasts. In the afternoon, choose a café to rest with a cup of left bank coffee, or visit the old street for crispy twin dough and fried seafood while savoring Bali's leisurely pace of life.9. JiufenCycling to Jiufen presents a challenging mountain-crossing adventure. Follow Municipal Route 102 starting from Ruifang, pushing upward along winding mountain roads toward the golden mountain city on the hillside. Upon reaching Jiufen, explore the old street, sip tea, and enjoy scenic views. If energy permits, continue along Route 102 toward Shuangxi. The highway features rolling mountains with expansive views, offering distant glimpses of Keelung Mountain, Jinguashi, and the North Coast. At Buyan Pavilion, named after Li Bai's poem verse "gazing at each other without growing tired," admire the straight road leading toward a sea of clouds.Jiufen live webcam showcases the beauty of this mountain town and provides current weather conditions. 10. Shifen Follow Municipal Route 106 into Pingxi, this coal-producing town located in the upper reaches of the Keelung River that has become world-famous for its sky lanterns. Cycle to visit railway towns along the route: Qingtong, Pingxi, Lingjiao, Wanggu, and Shifen, where you'll frequently witness sky lanterns carrying wishes rising gently into the sky. Cross the Siguangtan Suspension Bridge and Guanpu Suspension Bridge to admire the unique pothole geological formations in the Keelung River valley and the graceful water lines of Yanjingdong Waterfall, before finally reaching Taiwan's largest waterfall - Shifen Waterfall, where you can fully absorb negative ions. The Shifen Waterfall live webcam captures the waterfall's magnificent power and provides current weather conditions