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New Taipei City Travel

Once upon a time there was a walled city — Exploring Fangqiao City and the four temples

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Exploring Fangqiao City

When it comes to walled cities in Taiwan, the first places most people think of are Tainan City, Taipei City, and Hengchun Township. The gates of these cities, which were built by officials, still have their gates and even some of their walls, and some of them have had MRT stops named after them (Beimen [north gate] Station, Ximen [west gate] Station or the Taipei MRT line), and are a shared memory among present-day Taiwanese people. But did you know that there is also a walled city in Banqiao, the prime district of New Taipei City?

枋橋古城路標

When going from the MRT Fuzhong Station to the Lin Family Mansion and Garden, perceptive travelers will notice that the streetlights in this area are particularly old fashioned, and that they are labelled “Fangqiao Walled City.” On top of that, when looking down, you can see the words “City Border” on the street tiles. The ancient Fangqiao Walled City had five city gates, just like Taipei; additionally, its history is even better known than that of Taipei, primarily due to two major factors that led to the establishment of the city: the Lin family of Banqiao and the Zhang-Quan fighting.
古城界址

Back in the Qing Dynasty, there were frequent fights between Zhangzhou and Quanzhou immigrants; in order to defend themselves from the Quanzhou immigrants, the Banqiao Lin family, who originally came from Zhangzhou, built the Fangqiao Walled City in 1855, stretching out to present-day Ximen [west gate] Street, Beimen [north gate] Street, Nanmen [south gate] Street, and Guanqian West Road. However, during the Japanese occupation, the city was demolished to make place for traffic. Nevertheless, the temples located in the area still show traces of the old city.
枋橋古城地圖

Cihui Mazu temple
Located at the east side of the Fangqiao Walled City is the most popular Mazu temple in the Banqiao District. The temple is decorated on both the inside and the outside with fragmented ceramic art, sculptures, and color paintings, and the highly refined temple buildings are richly ornamented. In addition, the temple is a popular place for people to pray for prosperity, and local business magnates such as the Banqiao Lin family are all frequent visitors. If you look carefully, you can even find a dragon pillar bearing the business name of the Lin family.
慈雲宮屋頂剪粘
慈惠宮與板橋林家
慈惠宮財神

Banqiao Jieyun Temple
The Jieyun Temple and the Xinzhuang Dizang Temple, both located near the west gate of Fangqiao Walled City, are historically related to the Zhang-Quan fights; the Dizang Temple was built by the Banqiao gentry to commemorate the Zhangzhou people who died in the altercations. The Jieyun Temple, which is on the other side, was formerly known as the Zhonghe Ciyunyan Temple, but was destroyed during the armed struggles, and its remains were taken over by the Banqiao Jieyun Temple. Its collection contains many precious ancient plaques and scrolls, and there are many wood carvings of flying immortals wrapped in gold foil on both sides of the roof as well as in the main hall, which are very spectacular. The caisson ceiling has a special long oval design, and is of great historical and religious value.
接雲寺金仙人
接雲寺藻井
大眾廟

Banqiao Diyi Temple
The only one of the four temples to have been a city-designated temple, the Diyi Temple, was built by the Banqiao Lin family to commemorate the people who died fighting; it is also known as the Yuanshuai Temple. In 2021, after it was restored, the temple opened up for the public by appointment. The paintings of the Door Gods and the Qilin murals inside are all made by master painter Mr. Cai Longjin, the winner of the New Taipei Cultural Award. Next time you are in Banqiao, on your way to the Lin Family Mansion and Garden, slow down and closely follow the inscriptions on the ground to explore the former Walled City, and enter the temples to admire the exquisite paintings and craftmanship, and explore the past life of the city!
迪毅堂
迪毅堂濕壁畫

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The Fluorescent at Night on the Northern Coast - Jinshan Sulfuric Fire Fishing
At night, near the coast of Jinshan District, the only on the dark sea surface is the 4000-watt white fish-attracting lights of a neritic squid-catching boat in the distance, the sound of waves, and the sporadic traffic on Provincial Highway 2. Suddenly, a "boom!" sounded, and the flashing torches illuminated the silent sea surface, and the phototaxis small fishes jumped out of the sea one after another. This unique scenery limited to summer comes from the traditional fishing method unique to Jinshan Huanggang Fishing Harbor - "Jinshan sulfuric fire fishing," the most dazzling conventional fishing method in Taiwan.The sulfuric fire fishing boat is also commonly known locally as the "Hia-A-Tsun." Fishing boats set sail at night, and the captain stands at the ship's bow with a torch to attract phototactic fish species, such as pilchard, to jump out of the water, then catches them with a skimming net. It has been a traditional fishing method in Jinshan for a hundred years and was registered as a cultural asset of New Taipei City in 2015. During its heyday, more than 40 sulfur fire fishing boats were operating in the waters off the northern coast. However, in 2016, the T.S. Lines cargo ship ran aground in Shimen, causing an ecological disaster on the north coast due to the oil spill. The June 2017 flood caused seawater desalination in Jinshan, severely damaging the area's marine ecology for the second time and causing schools of pilchard to leave Jinshan. At one point, only one remaining ship, the Fuji 268, was still in operation.Fortunately, after several years of persistence, some mud carp have returned to the Jinshan coast in the past two years. Also, fishers have transformed the sulfuric fire fishing boat into a tourist experience activity. During the Sulfuric Fire Fishing season, which lasts from May to September every year, they combine fishing village tours with sea fishing to preserve the beauty of traditional fishing methods.The sulfuric fire fishing boat uses a flat-bottomed and flat-headed boat. It has a low speed but has the characteristics of fast turning and high maneuverability. 4-8 people operate the sulfuric fire fishing boat, including the captain and the fire crews. They use a fish finder on the bow to search for fish. The fire crews then use searchlights to identify the fish species. After confirmation, they use a torch to attract the light, attracting pilchard, Japanese anchovy, and other fish to jump out of the water. Also called Tainan sardine, pilchard is used as fish bait or grouper feed after processing. When the fishing conditions are good, a sulfuric fire fishing boat can catch more than 800 baskets of pilchard.The earliest sulfuric fire fishing boat used bamboo torches. After introducing calcium carbide during Japan's rule, fishers changed the ignition system to calcium carbide. Fishers poured water into the calcium carbide barrel to produce acetylene gas and through the filter cylinder to ignite the torch. The ignition produced a "boom" sound, which is the origin of the name of the sulfuric fire fishing boat today.Take a yacht out of Huanggang Fishing Port and enjoy one of Jinshan's eight scenic spots, "Bamboo Peak Mist," while tasting rice noodles with neritic squid. From the sea, enjoy the beautiful coastline of Jinshan and watch the dazzling Jinshan sulfuric fire fishing boat up close after nightfall.The yacht sails out of Huanggang Fishing Port, and what comes into view is the Jinshan Cape deep into the sea and the most famous landmark of Jinshan - the Twin Candlestick Islets. Besides, overlook the Yehliu Scenic Area and enjoy the scenery of the Jinshan coastline. While waiting for the sulfuric fire fishing boat, pick up a fishing rod and experience sea fishing fun.In the waters between Tiaoshi Coast and Yehliu, the sulfuric fire fishing boat used fish finders and searchlights for schools of pilchard at night. The yacht began to turn off the lights. After turning off the lights so as not to affect the sulfuric fire fishing boat's search for schools of fish, the yachts followed the Fuji 268 sulfuric fire fishing boat, everyone in the yacht holding their breath and waiting for the moment when the school of fish jumped out of the water. "Bang!" the gorgeous torches ignited on the sea, illuminating the dark sea of Jinshan. This unique view of the world is undoubtedly a beautiful visual feast."Yes, here comes fish!" Stimulated by the flames, the school of pilchard jumped out of the water, flashing like fireflies on the sea. The crew members skillfully caught the pilchard with the skimming net, and the passengers on the yacht celebrated with thunderous applause.The fire crew waved his hand handsomely to greet the crowd. The flashing torch in his hand is not only a tool for fishing but also carries a sense of mission to continue the tradition and pass on the unique traditional fishing method of Jinshan.
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The Must-see Attraction for Foreign Visitors- the Yehliu Geopark
You only have a week in Taiwan and do not want to spend too much transportation time? Then you definitely cannot miss the "world-famous" tourist attraction- the Yehliu Geopark. I assume you have done your research on the must-see attraction that people are talking about before coming to Taiwan. Have you heard of the "alien planet" in the northern Taiwan? If no, please add it to your travel to-do-list. The Yehliu Geopark is located in the suburban area of Taipei City. It is 40 minutes away from downtown by public transportation. The long and narrow capes sticking out from the island are eroded by the strong northeast monsoon, and with the weathering and coastal erosion, the "Mars landscape" is thus generated. There are lots of rock types here and you can even see gradient colors on some of the rocks. The famous rocks will be introduced below. You will definitely be amazed when seeing the art of nature in person!Pedestal rock area/ wave-cut platform- 2 main characteristics of the GeoparkIn the first area, you will see lots of pedestal rocks, ginger shaped rocks and candle shaped rocks. When looking around, pedestal rocks are everywhere. With time passing by, the hard concretion inside the sandstone is exposed, and with the effect of wind, sun, rain, wave as well as the erosion of the northeast monsoon, the pedestal rocks of different shapes, such as the pedestal rocks with no necks, bulk necks, narrow necks and broken necks, are thus formed. The landscape with lots of pedestal rocks is very uneven, so pay attention while you are walking on it. Do not be too focused on taking photos or enjoying the view and fall.The second area on the other side of the Geopark has the wave-cut landscape. You will find sea caves, coastal notches, wave-cut platform and cuesta. On one side of the wave-cut platform is the cliff and on the other side is the rapid wave. You will find lots of interesting rocks eroded by the seawater here, including the Twenty-four Filial Exemplars Rocks.Landscape Wonder- The Pedestal RocksWhen first walking into the Geopark, you will see a huge area of the pedestal rocks. When seeing afar, it's like the cute mushrooms park. And the pedestal rocks are the landscape that attracts most people in the Yehliu Geopark. The process for the formulation of the pedestal rock is first the rock formation exposed from the sea surface, and the seawater will erode the rock continuously. After some time, the hard concretion inside the sandstone is exposed, and with the effect of wind, sun, rain, wave as well as the erosion of the northeast monsoon, the pedestal rocks of different shapes, such as the pedestal rocks with no necks, bulk necks, narrow necks and broken necks, are thus formed. The different shapes of the rocks represent the different formation processes. The landscape with lots of pedestal rocks is very uneven, so pay attention while you are walking on it. Do not be too focused on taking photos or enjoying the view and fall.The Star of the Geopark - "Queen's Head"The next coming up is the star of the Yehliu Geopark, "Queen's Head". The Queen's Head is a kind of pedestal rock. When the crustal structure was rising, the differential erosion of the seawater made the Queen's Head what it is like today. If we divide its height by the average crust rising speed in northern Taiwan, we will learn the Queen's Head is about 4,000 years old. The Queen's Head is a kind of pedestal rock. However, the joint on its upper concretion broke during 1962-1963. When viewing from a certain angle, it looks similar to the head portrait of Elizabeth II and thus acquires the name. With the natural weathering effect over the decades, the neck of the Queen's Head is getting even narrower. To prevent erosion by human activities for that tourists might touch it, the Queen's Head is now under protection. If you would like to take a photo with the Queen's Head, you can walk on the wooden plank trail to line up. Besides, you can view the Queen's Head from afar and take photos with it on the trail.The "Cute Princess Rock" and "Candle Shaped Rock" are the popular landscape at the Geopark. The formation process of the "Cute Princess Rock" is similar to that of the Queen's Head. The eroded rock looks like a princess with a ponytail and is said to be the potential replacement of the Queen's Head. Doesn't the rock look like a little girl with her hair in a bun? Though the Cute Princess Rock is probably not as element and sophisticated as the Queen's Head, it gives people a feeling of passion and sweetness.How was the "Candle Shaped Rock" named? I guess you already know! The landscape looks just like candles. There are 3 main processes for the formation of the Candle Shaped Rock. First the candle fire is exposed, and the area around it is eroded to form a groove. Finally, the candlestick is cut and the Candle Shaped Rock is thus formed. The candle fire is actually a round concretion in the rock formation. When seawater erodes sandstone, the round concretion which is harder is exposed on the ground. And when waves dash against the concretion, seawater flow around the concretion to erode the sandstone around it. A groove is formed as a result. Since the formation outside the concretion is harder, seawater will flow according to the shape of the formation and cut the rock into a cone shape that looks like a candlestick. And a rock that looks like the shape of candle is formed by mother nature.Amazing Rocks- CuestaNow let's look at the beautiful scene of the Cuesta in the second area. Walking along on the road to the Cuesta, you will see the most beautiful sea and mountain scene in the Geopark. You can view the Cuesta on one side and the sea cliff as well as wave-cut platform on the other side.The Cuesta features a sharp cliff on one side and a smooth slope on the other side. It is formed because the main stratum is pushed by uneven force and speed, which results in uneven rise of the stratum. When the stratum is pushed, the lump on the ground will cause the stratum to break. And after the seawater erosion, a landscape that looks like a "natural slide" is gradually formed.Guess how famous is the Yehliu Geopark? CNN once reported that the scene at the "Yehliu Geopark" is like the landscape in the outer space and that it has the environment that looks just like the one Mars has. You will definitely find lots of gorgeous and special rocks, including the "Queen's Head", "Ice Cream Rocks", "Beehive Rocks", "Ginger Shaped Rocks" and other wave-cut landscape. You will definitely be amazed by the diverse geologic structure and landscapes here. What's more, you can see how great and powerful nature is. Whether it's from the perspective of geographic environment or location and transportation, the Geopark is definitely worth visiting!Transportation Information of the Yehliu Geopark*Tamsui Bus No.862 (Take the bus heading to Keelung in front of MRT Tamsui Station and get off at Yehliu.) The bus sets out every 30 minutes.*KUO-KUANG eBus No. 1815 (Take the bus heading to Chinshan Youth Activity Center at the KUO-KUANG eBus Station at Taipei Main Station. The Bus drives along Zhongxiao E. Road and makes a brief stop at the Taipei City Hall Bus Station. Please get off at Yehliu.) The bus sets out every 20 minutes.*Keelung Bus No.790 (Take the bus heading to Jinshan next to Keelung Train Station and get off at Yehliu.) The bus sets out every 15 minutes.*Keelung Bus No.1068 (Take the bus heading to Jinshan at National Taiwan University and get off at Yehliu Geopark.)*Keelung Bus No.953 (Take the bus heading to Jinshan at the bus station next to Banqiao Train Station and get off at Yehliu Geopark.)Nearby Places to Go Jinshan Wanli Cycling Route-->Jinshan Wanli Hot Spring
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小客帶路