Once upon a time there was a walled city — Exploring Fangqiao City and the four temples

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When it comes to walled cities in Taiwan, the first places most people think of are Tainan City, Taipei City, and Hengchun Township. The gates of these cities, which were built by officials, still have their gates and even some of their walls, and some of them have had MRT stops named after them (Beimen [north gate] Station, Ximen [west gate] Station or the Taipei MRT line), and are a shared memory among present-day Taiwanese people. But did you know that there is also a walled city in Banqiao, the prime district of New Taipei City?

When going from the MRT Fuzhong Station to the Lin Family Mansion and Garden, perceptive travelers will notice that the streetlights in this area are particularly old fashioned, and that they are labelled “Fangqiao Walled City.” On top of that, when looking down, you can see the words “City Border” on the street tiles. The ancient Fangqiao Walled City had five city gates, just like Taipei; additionally, its history is even better known than that of Taipei, primarily due to two major factors that led to the establishment of the city: the Lin family of Banqiao and the Zhang-Quan fighting.

Back in the Qing Dynasty, there were frequent fights between Zhangzhou and Quanzhou immigrants; in order to defend themselves from the Quanzhou immigrants, the Banqiao Lin family, who originally came from Zhangzhou, built the Fangqiao Walled City in 1855, stretching out to present-day Ximen [west gate] Street, Beimen [north gate] Street, Nanmen [south gate] Street, and Guanqian West Road. However, during the Japanese occupation, the city was demolished to make place for traffic. Nevertheless, the temples located in the area still show traces of the old city.

Cihui Mazu temple
Located at the east side of the Fangqiao Walled City is the most popular Mazu temple in the Banqiao District. The temple is decorated on both the inside and the outside with fragmented ceramic art, sculptures, and color paintings, and the highly refined temple buildings are richly ornamented. In addition, the temple is a popular place for people to pray for prosperity, and local business magnates such as the Banqiao Lin family are all frequent visitors. If you look carefully, you can even find a dragon pillar bearing the business name of the Lin family.

Banqiao Jieyun Temple
The Jieyun Temple and the Xinzhuang Dizang Temple, both located near the west gate of Fangqiao Walled City, are historically related to the Zhang-Quan fights; the Dizang Temple was built by the Banqiao gentry to commemorate the Zhangzhou people who died in the altercations. The Jieyun Temple, which is on the other side, was formerly known as the Zhonghe Ciyunyan Temple, but was destroyed during the armed struggles, and its remains were taken over by the Banqiao Jieyun Temple. Its collection contains many precious ancient plaques and scrolls, and there are many wood carvings of flying immortals wrapped in gold foil on both sides of the roof as well as in the main hall, which are very spectacular. The caisson ceiling has a special long oval design, and is of great historical and religious value.

Banqiao Diyi Temple
The only one of the four temples to have been a city-designated temple, the Diyi Temple, was built by the Banqiao Lin family to commemorate the people who died fighting; it is also known as the Yuanshuai Temple. In 2021, after it was restored, the temple opened up for the public by appointment. The paintings of the Door Gods and the Qilin murals inside are all made by master painter Mr. Cai Longjin, the winner of the New Taipei Cultural Award. Next time you are in Banqiao, on your way to the Lin Family Mansion and Garden, slow down and closely follow the inscriptions on the ground to explore the former Walled City, and enter the temples to admire the exquisite paintings and craftmanship, and explore the past life of the city!

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Taiwan Tourism100 Spotlights: Yingge

The beauty of pottery clay has brought light and heat to Yingge's culture. More than 200 years of pottery-making history have accumulated a deep foundation of craftsmanship. Yingge is now a major center of the ceramic industry and a source of art and culture in New Taipei City after going through the ups and downs of industrial transformation. Come to Yingge Ceramic Old Street, which is listed in the "Taiwan Tourism100 Spotlights" by the Tourism Administration of the Ministry of Transportation and Communications, to experience the beauty of handmade pottery. Also, walk to the New Taipei City Art Museum, which will open in April 2025, to spark inspiration between contemporary art and local culture.Yingge and the Ceramic IndustryLocated on the north bank of the Dahan River, Yingge and Sanxia face each other. The Taiwan Railway Yingge Station is the transportation hub of this ceramic capital. In the past, people mainly used this station for coal transportation, and it was responsible for transporting coal mined in the Sanxia mountain area. Yingge has become a tourist destination with ceramics and art as its business cards.We can trace Yingge's pottery-making history back 200 years. Yingge's natural conditions, such as clay, abundant firewood and coal resources, and water transportation on the Dahan River, enabled the development of the ceramic industry. During the whole bloom period of Yingge pottery, the numerous factory chimneys were once the representative scenery of Yingge.Yingge Ceramics Old Street is between Jianshanpu Street, Yuying Street, and Chongqing Street. After being renovated by the New Taipei City Government, the original old kiln factory has been transformed into a ceramic specialty store, art studio, DIY classroom, and exhibition center, pioneering Taiwan's experiential tourism. Walking along the street, parents and children laughing and interacting in the pottery-throwing classroom is the warmest life scene in Yingge.Located south of Ceramic Old Street, the New Taipei City Yingge Ceramics Museum focuses on the development of Taiwan's ceramics industry and presents the ancestors' life traces on this land. The Ceramics Museum actively interacts with Yingge's thriving community, promoting Yingge's cultural tourism construction and international artistic exchanges. It is an excellent choice to explore the charm of Yingge ceramics.DIY Experience in The Shu's PotteryThe Shu's Pottery, which opened in 1926, has witnessed the glory and innovation of Yingge's pottery-making industry in the past century. As the first tourist factory in Yingge to pass the central government's evaluation, The Shu's Pottery has renovated its pottery-making factory to create a spacious and bright DIY experience area, light meal and coffee area, and exhibition and sales space to reshape the "feelings of life" of pottery. Besides its porcelain brand, it also promotes the works of artists from Taiwan and Japan.The Shu's Pottery is like a living pottery time machine. The factory retains antique equipment such as gas kilns and kick-potter's wheel, allowing visitors to return to the early days of pottery. The DIY area in the museum has four major experience spaces: pottery-throwing, pottery-pinching, under-glaze painting, and mosaics collaging. Under the professional and friendly guidance of the pottery teacher, you can create your unique work. What's more fascinating is the railway outside the factory window. When you concentrate on hand-throwing the pottery, the train also accompanies you.New Taipei City Art MuseumThe New Taipei City Art Museum, officially opening in 2025, is a new art landmark in Yingge. Located in the new land where the Yingge River and the Dahan River convergence, the museum's silver-white exterior is inspired by the image of reeds commonly seen on the riverbank, with staggered high and low tubular lines outlining the reeds swaying in the wind. Its transparent and open space allows the museum to blend into the riverside landscape, becoming an aesthetic community that is both open and interactive.The New Taipei City Art Museum covers the main building, the Xinmei rendezvous, the Xinmei gathering place, and the outdoor park, allowing different art forms to shine in the right space. Several public artworks are in the outdoor park, the most eye-catching of which is the 15-meter-high orange-red standing greenware, which pays tribute to Yingge's ceramic culture.The New Taipei City Art Museum's vast outdoor park occasionally holds art fairs, concerts, dance performances, and fireworks shows, injecting endless artistic vitality into Yingge. Yingge has gradually moved from the industrial era of blazing kilns to an art town that integrates pottery and aesthetics. With the opening of the Sanying Line MRT in the future, the excitement will continue to unfold.

The Xingfu Waterfront – Exploring New Taipei by cycling

The irrigation and water transportation provided by the river have nurtured countless civilizations and the rise of many big cities. The most important river in northern Taiwan, Tamsui River, supports more than 8 million residents in its basin. Going back in time to the 18th century, the center of the Greater Taipei area was Xinzhuang by the riverbank. "Xinzhuang Port crowded by thousands of sails, and the market lit by thousands of household lights" entails the reputation of prosperity that Xinzhuang enjoyed. In mid-19th century, Tamsui became an important international commercial port. However, due to river siltation and pollutions caused by rapid industrialization, Tamsui River was forgotten by residents. After years of improvement efforts, the riverside in New Taipei is once again a great place for citizens to enjoy relaxation and recreation.New Taipei City has a 1,382-hectare riverside park. Complete bicycle paths are made available along Tamsui River and its three tributaries—Dahan River, Xindian River, and Keelung River, with a total length of 210 kilometers, which is equivalent to the distance between Banqiao, New Taipei and Douliu, Yunlin! There are six major bicycle routes in New Taipei City, including Bali Left Bank, Golden Coast, Xizhi, Erchong Circular, Dahan River, and Xindian River. Hop on a bicycle and explore New Taipei from the waterfront at the speed of 15km per hour!（Map created by Water Resources Department, New Taipei City Government） Bali Left Bank Bicycle PathFrom Guanyinkeng Creek Estuary to Baxian Coast: 14 kilometers[Route] Guanyinkeng Creek Estuary -- Guandu Bridge -- Bali Ferry Dock -- Laorong Bunker -- Sustainable Development Education Center -- Bali Left Bank Park -- Waziwei Nature Reserve -- Bali Cultural Park-- Shihsanhang Museum of Archaeology -- Xiaguzi Fishing PortBali, located on the left bank of Tamsui River, is connected to Tamsui by ferries and Guandu Bridge across the wide Tamsui River. It is a port with a long history in New Taipei. Shisanhang Museum of Archaeology, an important archaeological site in Taiwan, is also located in this area. Cycling from the starting point of Guanyinkeng towards the estuary, you will see Guanyin Mountain on the left and Tamsui River on the right. On the way, you will pass by Guandu Bridge, Bali Ferry Dock Old Street, Shisanhang Museum of Archaeology, and other major attractions. Bali is also one of the top areas in terms of green space per capita. There are many inclusive parks along the route, such as Shanggang Park, Ferry Dock Park, Pianzigou Park, Shuixinggong Park, Shisanhang Cultural Park, and Bali Left Bank Park. The BALI landmark at Bali Left Bank Park is a popular social media photo spot.The casual atmosphere of Bali has brought many coffee shops here. Choose a coffee shop to spend a relaxed afternoon or visit Ferry Dock Old Street to taste the famous Shuangbaotai (fried pastry) and various fried seafood to satisfy your inner foodie!Golden Coast Cycling RouteFrom Guanhai Park to North Coast: 16.7 km[Route] Guanhai Park (the border between Taipei and New Taipei) -- Guandu Bridge -- Zhuwei Pier -- Mangrove Nature Reserve -- Golden Coast Riverside Park -- Tamsui Old Street -- Tamsui Ferry Dock -- Banyan Embankment -- Tamsui Customs Wharf Park -- Fisherman's Wharf -- Danhai New Town -- North CoastThere are many eateries on Tamsui Old Street. The most representative dish, A-gei, is made by hollowing out the middle of fried tofu, filling it with fried cellophane noodles, soaking it in a sauce, sealing it with fish paste, and finally serving it with a sweet and spicy sauce drizzled on top. It is a seemingly simple but unforgettably tasty dish.Xizhi BikewayFrom the border between Taipei and New Taipei to Wudu (towards Keelung): 9.8 km[Route] The border between Taipei and New Taipei -- Beishan Bridge -- Nanyang Bridge -- New Shehou Bridge -- Jiangbei Second Bridge -- Chengzhong Pumping Station -- Wudu Railway Station -- Wudu (towards Keelung)Xizhi, located at mid-stream Keelung River, was known as Shuifanjiao in the past. Situated between Taipei City and Keelung City, it is the most densely populated area on the east side of New Taipei City. Its early development was due to the rise of river transportation on Keelung River, in which Xizhi became an important distribution center for tea and other goods from the neighboring mountains. Keelung River is the most tortuous among the three tributaries of Tamsui River. You can feel the unique landscape of this river when cycling along the bank. The most eye-catching landmark of this bikeway is the Starlight Bridge that is shaped like a microphone. This single-tower, cable-stayed bridge is for pedestrians and bicycles only. Along the bikeway, there are major attractions such as Xizhi Old Street, Xizhi Jide Temple, and Wudu Tunnel Bicycle Path.Xizhi Night Market is a treasure trove of delicacies, including stinky tofu, Chinese angelica duck, shaved ice, ba-wan (Taiwanese meatballs), and Taiwanese fried chicken, waiting for you to discover.Erchong Circular BikewayOne lap of the bikeway: 20 kilometers[Route] Floodway Sports Park -- Xingfu Waterfront Park -- Floodway Lotus Park -- Floodway Waterfront Park -- Floodway Central Park -- Floodway Zhuifeng Park -- Floodway Marsh Park -- Floodway Canal Park – Floodway Luti Park -- Breeze Canal -- Floodway Ecological Park -- Tamsui Riverside Park -- Duckie Park -- Floodway Sports ParkErchong Floodway was part of the Greater Taipei Area Flood Control Plan. It connects with Tamsui River on the east side to form a circle that bounds Luzhou, Sanchong, and part of Wugu as an island, which connects to Xinzhuang, Wugu, and Taipei City by a dozen of bridges. One lap of Erchong Circular Bikeway is about 20 kilometers long. New Taipei City Government has planned a number of sports and entertainment venues at Erchong Floodway, including New Taipei Metropolitan Park, Xingfu Water park, Breeze Canal, and Chenguang Bridge, which is designed for pedestrians and bicycles only. Along Tamsui River, there is Sanchong Air Force Military Kindred Village No. 1, which is an important cultural asset of New Taipei. Anti-aircraft artillery positions and underground tunnels there have been preserved and now used as a shooting location for film crews.Sanhe Night Market next to MRT Taipei Bridge Station is where many eateries that have been in business for more than 30 years are, selling delicacies such as sesame oil chicken soup, wontons, ba-wan (Taiwanese meatballs), herbal tea, and papaya milk. They are great snacks after exercising. Dahan River BikewayFrom Left Bank - Taoyuan City border to Sanchong: 24.7 km[Route] Taoyuan City border -- Yingge Ceramics Museum -- Sanying Ceramics Park -- Ganyuan Riverside Park -- Shulin Riverside Environmental Park -- Lujiao Creek Constructed Wetland -- Xisheng Riverside Environmental Park -- Sanchong Riverside Environmental Park -- Floodway Sports ParkFrom Right Bank - Changfu Bridge to Huajiang Bridge: 19.5 km[Route] Changfu Bridge – Sanxia Bridge -- Sanjiaoyong Bridge -- Xibei Riverside Park -- Tucheng Environmental Park -- Tucheng Mazutian Riverside Park -- Fuzhou Sports Park -- Banqiao Environmental Park -- Fuzhou Arts Riverside Park -- Huajiang BridgeDahan River, formerly known as Dakekan River, is the longest tributary of Tamsui River. Its upper reach is the catchment area of Shimen Reservoir, which supplies water to Taoyuan City and the west side of New Taipei City. After entering New Taipei City, it passes through Yingge, Sanxia, Shulin, Tucheng, Xinzhuang, Sanchong, and finally merges into Tamsui River with Xindian River in Jiangzicui, Banqiao. The first section of Dahan River Bikeway is the heart of New Taipei City's art and creativity. Yingge Ceramics Museum and the upcoming New Taipei City Art Museum are here. The middle section passes through a number of ecologically rich wetland parks, such as Lujiao Creek Constructed Wetland, Fuzhou Constructed Wetland, and Xinhai Constructed Wetland. In the last section, you can find 435 Art Zone, which is suitable for families with children; and the most beautiful landmark on Dahan River, Crescent Bridge, which is the longest double-span steel arch bridge in Taiwan.Dahan River has deep culture and history. The most prosperous Xinzhuang Temple Street of Greater Taipei in mid-Qing Dynasty is still busy today. Xianguang cake, which is a temple street specialty is shaped like a bagel or donut with a mixed savory and sweet taste. It carries good blessings so you will be safe and sound after eating it. Sanxia Old Street is famous for its Baroque facade buildings and red brick archways, developed in late Qing Dynasty and the Japanese Rule period. The famous Golden Croissant also originated from the market of Sanxia. A variety of flavors and methods to enjoy them have been developed over time. It is a popular souvenir from Sanxia.Xindian River BikewayFrom Huajiang Bridge to Bitan Scenic Area: 16 km[Route] Huajiang Bridge -- Butterfly Park -- Yonghe Emerald Riverside Park -- Luguang Riverside Park -- Xiulang Bridge -- Xiulang Qingxi Park -- Sunshine Sports Park -- Qinqing Riverside Park -- Xindian BitanXindian River has high-quality water and is the hometown of Taiwan sweetfish. The upstream tributary, Beishi River, constitutes the most important reservoir supplying water to the Taipei Metropolitan Area, Feicui Reservoir. Xindian River Bikeway starts from Jiangzicui, Banqiao and ends at Bitan, Xindian. It passes through four major administrative districts, namely Banqiao, Zhonghe, Yonghe, and Xindian. There are many theme parks along the way, such as the popular social media photo spots Butterfly Park and Dinosaur Park. You can also visit Yang Sanlang Art Museum to learn about the development of modern art in Taiwan. In Xindian, you can find Sunshine Bridge of Xindian River that is exclusive to pedestrians and bicycles, as well as Bitan Scenic Area. The scenery here can be enjoyed day and night.Yonghe Soymilk, which originated from the Zhongzheng Bridge area of Yonghe, is now well-known at home as well as abroad. After visiting Yang Sanlang Art Museum, it is the perfect timing to visit the founding store to taste the rich and silky soymilk.Xingfu Waterfront is the most open area in the most densely populated city of Taiwan. Riding along the riverbank at a speed of 15km per hour in the breeze, after leaving the noisy concrete jungle, you will find the waterfront without cars or motorcycles as a quiet and calming path. At the same time, you will be delighted to find out that besides humans, there are many creatures living among us in this city. Hop on a bike, with a different vision and mood, set off to the waterfront!