Exploring Tamsui Womenet s Road: Hearing the voice of women voice in the Red Castle

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Category :
Nostalgic tour of the old street & Secret attractions
Travel days :
1 day
適合對象 :
Public & Family & Couples & The aged

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      Introduction

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      Let's embark on a deep travel led by women in Tamsui. Begin by walking from the alleys near Tamsui Mazu up to Chongjian Street to uncover the romantic tale of the painter Lin Yu-chu and the writer Wang Chang-hsiung. Then, explore the century-old Red Castle to witness women's dedication to heritage and create your own thread-bound book. Finally, delight in the performance of Peking Opera at the Tamsui Customs Wharf against the backdrop of a sunset. Guided by an elegant female guide, let's embark on a cultural journey through Tamsui and listen to the stories of women in this area.
      福佑宮與重建街

      Visiting Tamsui Mazu and the two old streets
      Commencing the journey from the old alley adjacent to Fuyou Palace to visit Tamsui's four major temples – Fuyou Palace and Yinshan Temple dedicated to the worship of Mazu, Longshan Temple, and Qingshui Temple. Mazu, symbolizing the fortitude and compassion of women in the past time, is the goddess most familiar to the Taiwanese people and serves as the guardian of Tamsui's maritime activities. Fuyou Palace holds numerous legendary tales. According to accounts, during the Sino-French Battle of Tamsui and World War II, Tamsui Mazu manifested miracles and successfully safeguarded the safety of the Tamsui region. Furthermore, Fuyou Palace sits at the crossroads of two historic streets in Tamsui – Chongjian Street and Zhongzhen Road – bearing witness to the area's development over the past 200 years.
      福佑宮與重建街

      Painter Lin Yu-chu’sromance of Chongjian Street
      Ascending the stairs that wind along the mountain slope, you will arrive at Tamsui's Chongjian Street, the original commercial street. Today, in contrast to the bustling Zhongzheng, Chongjian Street exudes a more serene ambiance. However, it remains the authentic Tamsui Old Street and is home to many political and economic figures of Tamsui. From the mid-19th century to the early 20th century, this area was the most prosperous district in Tamsui. Gazing back at Chongjian Street offers a panoramic view of the picturesque Tamsui River landscape. It also holds significance as the romantic backdrop for Painter Lin Yu-chu and Writer Wang Chang-hsiung.
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      福佑宮與觀音山

      Lin Yu-chu was born on Qingshui Street near Chongjian Street. Qingshui Street, previously known as the "rice market street", was the primary location where rice vendors congregated in Tamsui a hundred years ago. Lin's family, for example, was involved in the rice-selling business. While studying at Tamsui Girls' School, Lin Yu-chu encountered her respected teacher, Chen Jing-hui. Chen Jing-hui, the grandson of Canadian missionary Mackay, had previously received a comprehensive arts education at the Kyoto City Specialized School of Art. Under Chen Jing-hui's careful guidance and through her dedication to learning, Lin Yu-chu began to shine in the field of painting.
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      With the encouragement of her teacher, Lin Yu-chu participated in Taiwan's grand annual art event – the Taiwan Fine Art Exhibition. In 1936, Lin Yu-chu's Nihonga artwork titled "Lighthouse at the Estuary" and Chen Jing-hui's "Aftertaste" were both selected for the 10th Taiwan Fine Art Exhibition. The outstanding accomplishment of a 17-year-old girl within Taiwan's art community during that era significantly heightened the radiance of Tamsui.
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      “If you open the door within your heart, you will witness the vibrant spring scenery.
      Though spring may not endure, it has the power to alleviate my distress for the moment.”

      With its lyrics penned by the physician and writer Wang Chang-hsiung, the song 'If I Open My Heart’s Door' has already become a classic Taiwanese song known to all Taiwanese people. Lin Yu-chu and Wang Chang-hsiung met through her teacher Chen Jing-hui. During their courtship, the two frequently rendezvoused on Chongjian Street, leaving behind their footprints, which have now transformed into a notable spot on Chongjian Street today – The Alley of Love, a place that exudes warmth and romance.
      戀愛巷
      重建街巷弄

      After visiting the distinctive shops along Chongjian Street such as "Vanilla Street House" and "Nine Valley 28", you will veer into an inconspicuous alley. This alley serves as a time tunnel leading to the Tamsui Red Castle.
      香草街屋
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      Grandma of the Red Castle, Hung Hsu-feng, preserves the Red Castle for Tamsui.
      The brick arched corridor leads to the Tamsui Red Castle, standing proudly on the slope of the old street. This red-brick Western-style building is a century-old landmark in Tamsui and has been featured in numerous paintings depicting this region. Constructed in 1899 by the wealthy businessman Li Yi-he, it was later acquired by Tamsui Street's chief, Hung Yi-nan, in 1913 and became a gathering place for local literati and scholars, attracting many prominent figures. In the 1960s, it was further purchased by Hung Hsu-feng, the owner of Te Yu Taiwan Fish Crackers.
      淡水紅樓

      "When Taiwan's economy started to take off, a construction company once approached Hung about rebuilding the Tamsui Red Castle, but Hung Hsu-feng steadfastly refused to sell it. The reason is that the Red Castle is not only a shared memory among the people of Tamsui but also holds a significant meaning symbolizing family unity and blessings. By steadfastly preserving the Tamsui Red Castle, it now functions not solely as a restaurant but also partners with Tamsui Community College to promote vegetarian cooking and participates in cooperative endeavors with 'Vanilla Street House' on Chongjian Street. These collaborative efforts actively safeguard the heritage of old Tamsui through ongoing initiatives.
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      Visitors can savor a cup of traditional tea within the Red Castle's century-old splendor; don traditional Hanfu attire; and, under the guidance of Li-hsin, a representative possessing national treasure-level female expertise, craft their own thread-bound book at a leisurely pace. This allows visitors to momentarily detach from the digital age's information bombardment and immerse themselves in ancient craftsmanship predating the industrial era, facilitating a serene and mindful experience for the body and soul.
      線裝書製作
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      The days of sea lights – Wang Jing's Road towards Peking Opera
      Situated on the banks of the Tamsui River, the Tamsui Customs Wharf plays a significant role in Taiwan’s international trade history. After Taiwan opened the port in 1860, Tamsui welcomed its most splendid era. The wharf, constructed from stones such as Guanyin stone or Kiligan rock, stands as a testament to Tamsui's history as an international trading port. However, as a result of river channel siltation, the functions of the Tamsui port gradually declined, causing it to lose its former prominence.
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      Afterward, the clamor of wharf workers was replaced by the voices of women. In 1975, the Navy Art Work Brigade relocated from Zuoying in Kaohsiung to Tamsui Customs Wharf. The Haiguang Peking Opera Team and Haiguang Peking Opera Training Class, embodying the strength and aspirations of women, also found their new home by the Tamsui River. The former port warehouse was then repurposed as a dedicated space for training Peking opera skills. Over time, talents like Wang Ching, known as the “sea light”, were drawn here and eventually illuminated the Peking Opera stage with their brilliance.
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      王菁老師京劇表演

      In the old warehouse of Tamsui Customs Wharf, several renowned Peking Opera performers such as Wei Hai-min, Wang Hai-bo, and Shen Hai-jung were nurtured. These performers gracefully dance on stage, narrating stories through their art. They also challenge traditional gender roles, where women are not just supporters behind the scenes but also prominent figures on stage. Rooted in local culture, Tamsui Women’s Road will persist in uncovering stories of women in Tamsui and scripting a future of gender equality.
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      Visiting Qitang Old Street
      In 1889, Taiwan's first railway was under construction at full speed between Keelung and Taipei. Railway construction workers discovered glittering gold dust in the river in today's Qidu area of Keelung. Those who are seeking wealth traced the river upstream, and eventually found the outcrop of gold vein in Xiaojingua and Dajingua, which kickstarted the gold mining era of Northern Taiwan. The previously quiet Jinguashi and Jiufen therefore entered their golden years. Until 1987, Taiwan Metal Mining Corporation closed the mining business and drew an end to Jinguashi's hundred-year mining history.Different from the strong commercial vibes of Jiufen, after the mining activities ended, Jinguashi became an isolated and quiet little mountain town. The buildings scattered among the emerald hills, the huge Guangong statue guarding the area, and the occasionally seen hikers in the alleys represent the present life of Jinguashi."Let us never forget." During World War II, Jinguashi was once used as a Japanese war prisoner camp. The locals called it "Dubiziliao," which meant the place where foreign prisoners were held. These prisoners of war in Southeast Asia were from Britain, the US, Canada, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, and the Netherlands. During their imprisonment, they mined copper here under poor living conditions. Most of them did not survive the war and died in Jinguashi. In 1997, Taiwan POW Memorial and Peace Park opened to commemorate the war. "Freedom is not free" reminds the world that peace and prosperity are not easy to come by.Qitang Old Street is an important street of Jinguashi. The old street built along the mountain is the main living circle of the miners in the early years. In its most prosperous period, 80,000 gold diggers gathered here! In addition to restaurants and grocery stores, there were entertainment venues such as jewelry shops, pool halls, and bars! During the Japanese Rule period, it was known as the "Jinguashi Ginza." After the gold mining era ended, the number of residents in Jinguashi plummeted to less than 2,000. Today, the once-bustling Qitang Old Street retains a strong nostalgic atmosphere. The renovated rainbow stairs have become a topic in social media, drawing the world's attention to this mining town in the mountains again.Follow the rainbow stairs up to Jinguashi Quanji Temple, also known as Qitang (Qi Hall). The temple has been built for more than 120 years. It is the belief center of Jinguashi, dedicated to worshiping the Holy Emperor Lord Guan. The most treasured object at Quanji Temple is the largest Guan Gong statue in Taiwan that is made of pure copper and 10.6 meters in height. This statue of Guan Gong reading Chunqiu (the Spring and Autumn Annals) and standing majestically at the high point of Jinguashi against the mountains and facing the sea is the most visible landmark of Jinguashi. It is also the patron saint, blessing generations of Jinguashi people.The 260-meter-high Baoshi Mountain is named after the timed horns here during the Japanese Rule period. From the parking lot of Quanji Temple, you can walk up along the hiking trail and reach the viewing platform in 10 minutes. Facing the sea, Yin-Yang Sea and the North Coast are all within your sight. Looking back at the mountains, you can see Teapot Mountain and Liukeng Slope Cableway right in front of your eyes, surrounded by greenery and between mountains and the sea.Teapot Mountain is the backbone of the Jinguashi area, with an elevation of 602 meters. When viewed from the Jinguashi side, the ore rock at the top of the mountain looks like a teapot without a handle, earning it the cute and memorable name of "earless teapot." Teapot Mountain Trail is the most popular hiking trail in Jinguashi. It takes about 30-50 minutes to reach the top of the mountain from the parking lot of Quanji Temple. It is the most beautiful view in Ruifang. With Keelung Mountain right in front of your eyes, the little town of Jinguashi, the winding roads under your feet, and the boundless blue sky and sea, this spectacular scenery can heal you from your stressful daily life."Asia's No. 1 precious metal mine" was the prestige Jinguashi enjoyed in the past. The settlements formed around gold and copper mines in the old days carried the dreams of countless gold diggers. After the demise of the mining industry, what remained unchanged is the beautiful scenery of mountains and seas. They remain the spiritual home of hikers and Jinguashi people.
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      Canguangliao Historic Trail – Appreciating silver grass. Searching for gold. Indulging in the flavors of fall and all splendid sceneries.
      Rumor has it that the name “Canguangliao” (“canguang” means shining light in Chinese) comes from the scenery when mountains, full of yellowish and white silver grass in fall, give spectacular light rays formed under the sun beams, making Canguangliao Historic Trail a “golden shining” scenic route! From Mudan Train station, take a bus to Shisanceng Old Tree Stop and walk for 10 minutes, and you will arrive at “Canguangliao Historic Trail Entrance”. Along the Trail, visitors will pass by the historic site of Jinguashi Water Pumping Station, small waterfalls, historic site of old grocery store, Jinshan Fude Temple, and more, and they will ultimately arrive at Shumeiping Observation Deck. The total distance is nearly 5km with a walking time of approximately 3 hours; the level portions of the Trail are constructed with stairs of relatively lower difficulty level for walking. Moreover, Canguangliao Mountain is the highest amongst Keelung Volcano Group, so visitors can even look over to Taipei City and Northeast Coast when there is nice weather with an expansive view. After exiting the Trail, follow County Route 102 to Jinguashi Geological Park, where was previously Benshan Mine. Visitors here will have the opportunity to observe traces of the most original mining sights. Then continue traveling to the nearby Jinguashi Shinto Shrine, which was built during the period of Japanese rule in response to the mining development. Even though it is all abandoned now, visitors can still have a glimpse of the sacred and solemn ambiance from the remains of the historic site. If you are interested in having more in-depth experiences of Jinguashi’s golden age, you can continue walking down to the Gold Museum, which is a museum campus transformed from the gold mining areas in the old days. Activities here will include learning about the mining history, the gold culture, and experiencing gold panning; spending a whole afternoon here will be no problem at all. At the end of the journey, visitors will connect to Jiufen Old Street, where they are recommended to order a bowl of cold or hot taro balls or to find a tea place and enjoy a cup of good tea, taking some time to savor this “golden” journey as they take a rest.
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